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Patek Philippe Ref. 1579 Pink Gold “Weil” Double-Signed: An Icon of Chronograph Elegance
Few vintage chronographs inspire as much reverence among collectors as the Patek Philippe Reference 1579. Introduced in 1943, this model embodies both the technical mastery and timeless design language that have made Patek Philippe a benchmark of high horology. When the dial features a rare retailer signature such as “Weil,” the watch enters a new echelon of rarity and desirability.
Historical Context and Production Numbers
Reference 1579 was produced from 1943 to 1964, standing out as one of the most sophisticated manually-wound chronographs of its era. Patek Philippe manufactured the Ref. 1579 in three case metals:
- Yellow Gold: Approximately 470 pieces produced.
- Pink (Rose) Gold: Approximately 82 pieces produced—making it one of the rarest variants.
- White Gold: Only about 3–6 examples are believed to exist, placing them among the rarest of all Patek chronographs.
The pink gold version with a double-signed dial, is a trophy for any collector, as very few examples ever surface at auction.
Design Characteristics
The most distinctive design feature of the Ref. 1579 is its faceted, “spider-lugs” case architecture, a departure from the more conventional rounded lugs of its contemporaries.
The sharp, angular lugs add a dramatic Art Deco flair while preserving the elegant proportions that define vintage Patek Philippe. The case measures 36mm, substantial for its period, and provides an impressive wrist presence.
The dial layout is balanced and classic, with applied gold Arabic numerals, two registers, and a tachymeter scale. The dials were crafted by Stern Frères, who are known for their impeccable dial work.
Dial Variations: Baton Indexes vs. Pyramid Indexes
First Series: Stick Indexes (ca. 1943 – early 1950s)
Production Start: The Ref. 1579 was introduced in 1943.
Dial Type: The earliest examples, first series, baton indexes.
Characteristics: These dials have long, thin, rectangular applied hour markers (baton or stick style), paired with simpler, more streamlined dial layouts. The design reflects the immediate post-war trend for understated, functional elegance.
Collectibility: First series 1579s with stick indexes are rarer on the market, especially when unrestored, and are often sought by collectors for their purity and period-correct style.
Second Series: Pyramid (Faceted) Indexes (early 1950s – 1964)
Transition: Sometime in the early 1950s, Patek Philippe transitioned to the second series of Ref. 1579 dials.
The new dials has bold, faceted pyramid indexes.
Characteristics: These pyramid-shaped markers add significant visual depth and are associated with the brand’s increasing embrace of more opulent, three-dimensional dial architecture during the 1950s and 1960s.
Collectibility: Pyramid index dials are more frequently encountered among surviving Ref. 1579S, condition is king
The “Weil” Double-Signed Dial
A “double-signed” Patek Philippe is one where, alongside the Patek Philippe signature, the name of a prestigious retailer appears. Casa Weil was a prominent retailer of fine watches in South America, in Montevideo, Uruguay, and was among the select authorized dealers to offer Patek Philippe timepieces with their prestigious double signature on the dial—a mark of exclusivity and provenance highly prized by collectors today.
Weil is discreetly printed beneath the brand’s logo. Double signatures were typically reserved for Patek’s top retail partners, adding a layer of provenance and exclusivity.
This dial is also “uneraseable”—a collector’s term referring to dials with signatures or markers that are enameled or deeply printed into the dial surface, making them impossible to remove or alter without irreparably damaging the dial.
Uneraseable” or “indelible” dials, are manufactured using a specialized technique in which the numerals, scales, and signature are not simply printed on the surface, but are instead etched or engraved directly into the metal base of the dial.
This process, is followed by filling the grooves with enamel or lacquer, ensuring that the inscriptions are permanently embedded and cannot be removed or worn away through time or cleaning.
Enamel paint would be used, deeply embedded into these grooves, and fixed through baking
The technique demands precise craftsmanship and skill, as it combines both traditional engraving and advanced finishing methods, resulting in dials that are highly durable and — a hallmark of top-tier Swiss watchmaking.
Movement: Caliber 13-130 (13’’’ CH)
At the heart of the Ref. 1579 beats the Patek Philippe Caliber 13-130, based on the esteemed Valjoux 23 ebauche but extensively modified and finished to the highest standards by Patek Philippe.
Technical Characteristics:
- Column-wheel chronograph mechanism for precise actuation.
- Manual wind, with 18,000 vibrations per hour.
- 23 jewels.
- Geneva stripes, anglage (beveling), and meticulous hand finishing on all movement parts.
The Patek Philippe Caliber 13’’’130 stands apart for its series of proprietary modifications that elevate it far beyond the standard ébauche.
Patek Philippe introduced a signature protective cap over the column wheel, a feature absent on the base Valjoux movement, to shield this critical chronograph component from dust and accidental damage, thereby improving operational smoothness and reliability.
The movement is also distinguished by its finely executed and hand mirror-polished swan neck micro-regulator, allowing precise adjustment of the balance for optimal timekeeping.
Other hallmarks include hand-finished anglage (bevelled edges), Geneva stripes on the bridges, and a specially shaped chronograph bridge unique to Patek Philippe, as well as the meticulous application of polished and chamfered screws.
The Caliber 130’s architecture was further refined with a redesigned clutch lever, improved minute jumper, and proprietary wheels for the chronograph function, all individually adjusted and finished by hand.
These technical and aesthetic improvements make the Patek Philippe Cal. 13’’’130 not just a modified movement, but a true expression of haute horlogerie—recognized for both its mechanical excellence and visual refinement.
The Buckle
The original “SW” signed buckle accompanying this Patek Philippe reference is a detail of both historical and collector significance. The “SW” hallmark stands for Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère SA (Société Wenger), a Geneva-based manufacturer specializing in quality precious metal buckles and watch components.
Patek Philippe frequently partnered with Société Wenger to supply their gold buckles, ensuring that even the smallest accessories matched the brand’s rigorous standards for finishing and material quality.
These buckles, cast in 18kt gold and hallmarked, reflect the same attention to detail found in the watches themselves, featuring crisp engraving, solid construction, and an elegant form that harmonizes with the overall design of the watch.
Movement: Caliber 13-130 (13’’’ CH)
The Enduring Legacy
The Patek Philippe Ref. 1579 in pink gold with a double-signed “Weil” dial encapsulates everything that makes vintage Patek Philippe chronographs so desirable: low production, masterful design, innovative engineering, and an aura of exclusivity.
Each double-signed piece carries with it the story of its original retailer, making it a unique witness to the history of luxury watchmaking and global commerce.
Today, Ref. 1579 is celebrated not only for its beauty and rarity but also as a reference point for mid-century chronograph design. The “Weil” double signature makes it a standout among even the most distinguished collections
Based ond the Extract from the Archives, this watch was sold on Dec. 19Th, 1946