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Cartier Tank Normale Ultra-Thin Ref. 838 “Grande”
The Cartier Tank Normale Ultra-Thin Ref. 838 “Grande” stands as a testament to Cartier’s enduring design philosophy and its collaboration with esteemed movementmanufacturers. Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier began as a jeweler and later expanded into watchmaking.The Tank collection, introduced in 1917, was inspired by the tracks on the Renault tanks used in World War I.
A Legacy of Sleek Elegance
Designed by Louis Cartier, its rectangular case and clean lines quickly became iconic.
The Tank Normale, introduced in 1919, was the first iteration and set the tone for decades of Tank designs, including the Ultra-Thin models.
The Cartier Tank Normale Ultra-Thin was introduced in the Paris boutique in 1963 and represents one of the central pieces of the new collection which consisted of three Cartier icons, the Tank Normale, the Tank Louis and the Tank Cintrée.
In the early 1960s, Cartier expanded its Tank collection, introducing ultra-thin models to cater to a clientele seeking sleek and refined timepieces.
A Masterpiece of Ultra-Thin Design
The Tank Normale Ultra-Thin was among these introductions, available in three sizes: small (7-ligne caliber), medium (8-ligne caliber), and large (9-ligne caliber).he Ref. 838 corresponds to the large model, powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber P838.
The 18kt gold case measures 22.8 mm in width, excluding the crown, and 30.3 mm in length, with a thickness of 5.3 mm, including the glass.
Its design features flatbrancards and a harmonious blend of brushed and polished surfaces, emphasizing Cartier’s commitment to understated elegance.
The case back bears the French “eagle head” hallmark, indicating its 18kt gold composition, and the serial number dates this particular watch to 1964. At the heart of the Ref. 838 is the manual winding Cartier-signed Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber P838.
Introduced in the early 1960s, this ultra-thin movement was renowned for its precision and reliability.
Timeless Elegance and Functional Craftsmanship
Its slim profile allowed Cartier to manufacture the Tank Normale’s elegant thinness without compromising on quality or performance.
The dial showcases Cartier’s signature Roman numerals and chemin de fer minute track, elements that have become synonymous with the Tank series. Blued steel sword-shaped hands provide a clear contrast against the dial, ensuring legibility.
Over time, this dial has developed a subtle patina, adding character to the timepiece. Completing the watch is an original black alligator strap, secured with a matching pink gold folding clasp. Notice that the folding clasp is pink gold while the case is yellow gold; this has been a consistent style choice over the years.
It`s possible that Cartier’s use of pink gold components in folding clasps for yellow gold watches be a practice rooted in both aesthetics and functionality.
The incorporation of rose gold elements, particularly in the structural parts of the deployant buckle should enhance the clasp’s strength and durability as due to its higher copper content rose gold is generally more durable than yellow gold.
Discussions among watch enthusiasts have highlighted instances where Cartier deployant buckles feature a combination of rose and yellow gold parts, suggesting that this design choice is intentional and aligns with Cartier’s standards. The Cartier Tank Normale Ultra-Thin Ref. 838 exemplifies the brand’s dedication to design excellence and horological innovation. Its collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre for the movement underscores a commitment to quality and precision, making this timepiece a noteworthy chapterin Cartier’s storied history.
